How to Level a Pool Table: Legs, Slate and the Roll Test
To level a pool table, tighten the frame and leg bolts, find the low corner with a precise level, raise it with the leg levelers or shims under the feet until the table reads level side to side at both ends and then end to end, and finish with slow roll tests in every direction. That fixes tilt. If the bed is flat but a seam or one slate piece is off, the fix is under the slate instead, and on a three-piece table that's a cloth-off job.
Most home tables only need the first part. Below is the order installers use, how to tell which problem you have from the way a slow ball misbehaves, and the numbers that define "level enough."
Before you touch a leveler
Two quick checks save a lot of wasted adjusting.
- Tighten everything under the table: leg bolts, frame bolts, the cross members. It's the cheapest fix there is. A leg that's working loose lets the table rock, and no amount of leveling holds on a frame that moves.
- Push on each corner. If the table rocks, one foot isn't carrying its share. Fix that first by bringing the light corner down onto the floor, not by raising the other three.
Then clean the cloth and the balls. Pool Table Portfolio points out that a speck of debris or a pill of wool can deflect a very slow ball, and that's enough to send you chasing a tilt that isn't there.
Tilt or flatness: find out which problem you have
A table can be out in two different ways, and they're fixed in two different places. You'll find advice online that says never to shim the slate, while installers shim it on every three-piece job. Both are right, about different problems.
| What the ball does | Problem | Where it's fixed |
|---|---|---|
| Drifts the same way wherever you roll it | Whole table tilts | Legs: levelers or shims under the feet |
| Drifts one way at one end and a different way at the other | Frame twist | Legs, working side to side at each end |
| Rolls true, then wanders in one zone | One slate piece is low or high | Shims between that slate and the frame (cloth off) |
| Hops, clicks or wiggles crossing a line about a third of the way in | Seam proud, sunken or open | Slate shims plus seam filler; see slate seams |
| Curves only in the last few inches of a crawling roll | Often cloth, dirt or the ball, not level | Clean and retest before adjusting anything |
So the rule is simple. If the bed is flat and just tilted, leave the slate alone and work at the legs. If the bed itself isn't flat, the legs can't fix it.
What you need
- A machinist level. A carpenter's level is fine for setting the frame roughly, but it can't see the small slope that makes a slow ball drift. Our guide to pool table levels compares the tools in numbers.
- A long straight level or straightedge, 2 to 6 feet, to rest the machinist level on. This averages out tiny bumps so you read the table, not the spot under the level.
- A large adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers for the leg levelers. Valley's assembly instructions call for exactly that.
- Shims for any foot without a leveler: plastic or hardwood, thin enough to stack.
- Painter's tape and a pencil to mark readings on the rails, never on the cloth.
- A helper. Lifting a corner while someone turns the leveler makes the job far easier.
How to level a pool table at the legs, step by step
- Clear the table and take off anything heavy, then let it sit. If it was just moved or the floor is carpet, give it time to settle first (see pool tables on carpet).
- Set the long level across the width at the head end, machinist level on top, about where the head diamonds are. Note which side is low. Do the same at the foot end.
- Fix side to side first. Raise the low leg at one end until that end reads level across, then go to the other end and do the same. Go back and forth until both ends read level across and stop changing. This is the order installers use, and it takes the twist out of the frame.
- Now check end to end, along both long sides and down the middle. If the head or foot is low, raise both legs at that end by the same amount so you don't put the twist back in.
- Check the diagonals, corner to corner. They should agree with what you just set.
- Tighten any lock nuts on the levelers and recheck everything once more. Locking a leveler can move it a hair.
- Roll-test (next section). If the ball agrees with the level, you're done.
Make small moves. A quarter turn of a leveler at a time is plenty, and having someone lift that corner while you turn takes the load off the threads. On fixed feet, slide a thin shim under the low foot and add more in thin layers rather than one thick block; stacked thin shims let you sneak up on level. If you find yourself needing more than about a quarter inch under one foot, look at the floor or the frame before stacking more.
How to level a slate pool table with three-piece slate
When the legs are right but the bed still isn't flat, the work moves under the slate. That means pulling the rails and cloth, so most owners have it done during a refelt. Here's what the job involves, so you know what you're paying for or taking on.
- Level the frame first, exactly as above. Slate leveling on a twisted frame never ends.
- Back the slate screws off so they're not pulling the stone down while you work.
- Get the center slate right first, then bring each end slate up to it. Shims go between the slate's wood backing and the frame, close to the slate screws. At the seams, put them just inside the screws.
- Check each piece along its length and across its width, and check every seam by sliding the machinist level across it. Installers listen for it: a level that clicks as it crosses the joint is telling you one edge is proud.
- Snug the screws, working from the outside in, then recheck. Tightening can pull a piece out, and if it does, back the screw off and shim again.
- Fill the seams and screw holes flush only after the slate is level. Filler choices and methods are in our slate seam guide, which also covers the shims themselves.
- Put the cloth back on and check again. Pool Table Portfolio notes that cloth tension can shift a finely set bed slightly.
The WPA's own wording is that slate joints must be in the same plane within .005 inch "after leveling and shimming," so shimming the slate is normal practice, not a hack. The full rebuild order (frame, slate, shims, seams, cloth, rails) is in how to set up a pool table, and how three-piece slate compares to one-piece is in pool table slate thickness.
Valley bar boxes, one-piece slate and MDF tables
These are easier, because there's nothing to level between slate pieces. The whole bed moves as one, so leveling is a legs-only job.
Valley's home pool table instructions say to screw the leg levelers all the way in before the table is stood up, then place the level in several spots on the slate and turn the levelers with a big adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers, ideally with a second person lifting that corner. They also say a bigger level gives better results, which is the same reason we rest the machinist level on a long straightedge.
MDF and other non-slate tables follow their own manual. The levelers work the same way, but the bed can sag or warp over time, and no leg adjustment fixes a bowed board.
The roll test, done properly
The level tells you about the slate; the ball tells you about the whole playing surface. Do both.
- Use a clean ball and clean cloth, and play under your normal table light.
- Roll gently with no spin, slow enough that the ball barely reaches the far rail. A hard roll runs straight over a slope that a slow one shows.
- Roll the length of the table along both long rails and down the middle, then across the width at the head, center and foot, then both diagonals.
- Roll every line in both directions. If the ball drifts toward the same rail both ways, that's tilt. If it drifts one way going out and the other way coming back, it's your release, not the table.
- Repeat anything odd from a slightly different starting point, and write down where it happens.
A ball that drifts the same way in one area only, after the level says the table is fine, is pointing at a slate piece or seam. Go back to the table above.
How level is level enough?
The WPA's equipment specification is the closest thing to a standard. It doesn't give a tilt number, but it does set flatness:
| WPA requirement | Number | In plain terms |
|---|---|---|
| Flatness along the length | Within .020 inch | About the thickness of five sheets of printer paper over the whole bed |
| Flatness across the width | Within .010 inch | Half that, over half the distance |
| Slate joints | Same plane within .005 inch after leveling and shimming | Roughly one sheet of paper |
| Sag under a 200 lb load at center | No more than .030 inch extra | Why the frame and slate thickness matter |
| Bed height | 29-1/4 to 31 inches | Floor to playing surface |
For a home table, our working target is a bubble that stays centered on the machinist level everywhere you check, plus slow rolls that hold their line in every direction. If you get both, you're inside anything you'll feel in a game.
When to relevel, and when to call someone
Check the level a few weeks after any new install or move, once the table has settled. After that, Black Label Billiards suggests every 6 to 12 months or after a move, and more often on carpet. A two-minute roll test whenever play feels off costs nothing.
Call a billiard mechanic if the slate needs shimming, if a seam hops balls, or if you own a premium table whose warranty requires dealer service (Brunswick and Olhausen do; see the setup guide). Triangle Billiards puts a releveling visit at $100 to $300, depending on labor. Ask whether the quote covers the slate or just the legs.
Mistakes that keep a table out of level
- Leveling end to end before side to side, which locks a twist into the frame.
- Trusting one reading in the middle of the table.
- Using cardboard, folded paper or playing cards as shims. They compress and soak up humidity, so the level you set slowly disappears.
- Raising the high corners instead of bringing the low one up, which leaves a rocking table.
- Shimming slate to cure a tilt the legs should fix, or adjusting legs to hide a slate piece that's low.
- Releveling a table on new carpet the same day it arrives. It's going to sink.
- Forgetting the room. Big humidity swings move wood frames; our pool table humidity guide covers the range to hold.
Sources
- WPA Recommended Equipment Specifications (slate flatness, joints, bed height)
- Valley home pool table assembly instructions (leg levelers)
- Black Label Billiards: first-time pool table owner (recheck interval, carpet)
- Triangle Billiards: hidden costs of ownership (releveling fees)
Our picks
Links open the current selection and price on Amazon so you can compare real reviews before buying.
12-Inch Master Precision Machinist Level
Reading the slateRated to 0.02 mm per meter, about two thousandths of an inch over a 9-foot bed. That's the scale a slow ball notices and a carpenter's bubble can't show. It comes in a carry case and can be adjusted with a set screw if it ever reads off.
Amazon price: $58.40 as of 1:31 PM EDT. Price and availability can change; Amazon’s price at purchase applies.
Check price on Amazon
Klein Tools 93524 24-Inch Box Beam Level
A straightedge for the machinist levelOn its own its vials read to 0.5 mm per meter, which is fine for setting the frame. Laid across the slate with the machinist level sitting on top, it bridges small bumps so you're reading the table, not one spot.
Check price on Amazon
Sterling Gaming Plastic Slate Shims, Set of 12
Shimming slate piecesAbout 3 by 1-1/4 inches with ribbed sides that grip. Plastic doesn't crush or swell the way cardboard does, so a slate you set flat stays flat through the seasons.
Amazon price: $11.99 as of 1:31 PM EDT. Price and availability can change; Amazon’s price at purchase applies.
Check price on AmazonFrequently asked questions
How do you level a pool table?
Tighten the frame and legs, then use a machinist level to get each end level side to side, then the table level end to end, adjusting the leg levelers or shims under the feet. Finish with slow roll tests in both directions along the length, width and diagonals.
What is the best way to level a pool table?
Work side to side at each end first, then end to end, with a machinist level resting on a long straightedge. Move the levelers a quarter turn at a time and recheck after every change. Fix tilt at the legs and flatness under the slate.
What kind of level do I need for a pool table?
A machinist level for the playing surface, ideally resting on a 2 to 6 foot straightedge or box level. A carpenter's level alone is too coarse for the final pass. Our guide to pool table levels compares the options.
Should I shim the legs or the slate?
Legs, if the whole bed is tilted. Slate, if the bed itself isn't flat or a seam is off. Shimming the slate means removing the rails and cloth, so it's usually done during a refelt or a move.
How do I level a 3-piece slate pool table?
Level the frame first, loosen the slate screws, set the center slate, then shim each end slate up to it near the slate screws until every piece and seam reads flat. Tighten from the outside in, recheck, then fill the seams before the cloth goes on.
How do I level a Valley pool table?
Valley tables level at the leg levelers. Place the level in several spots on the slate and turn the levelers with a large adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers. It's much easier with someone lifting that corner.
Can I level a pool table without removing the felt?
Yes, if the problem is tilt. Leg adjustments are made with the cloth on. Uneven slate pieces or seams can only be fixed with the cloth off.
How often should a pool table be leveled?
Check it a few weeks after it's installed or moved, then every 6 to 12 months, and more often on carpet. A slow roll test whenever the table plays strangely tells you whether it's time.
How much does it cost to have a pool table leveled?
Triangle Billiards puts a releveling visit at 100 to 300 dollars depending on labor. Slate releveling with the cloth off costs more and is often combined with a refelt.
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